Monthly Archives: October 2016

Readings and negatively affect the air to fuel ratio

Signs of a dirty MAF sensor could be a check engine light.  You may experience a loss of power, stalling, rough idle.  Your engine may also be running rich and producing excess emissions.  The original Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner from CRC Industries is a unique precision cleaner specifically developed to clean sensitive components in MAF sensors without damaging or degrading plastic or painted surfaces.

Use CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner with the engine off. Always wear gloves and eye protection, and insert the straw into the nozzle before an application.  Remove the air filter to gain access to the MAF sensor located between the air box and the throttle body.  It is recommended that you remove the sensor for best cleaning, but it’s not absolutely necessary.  Place a towel under the MAF to catch any run-off.  Using the straw attachment, apply 10 to 15 short bursts of CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner to the hotwire or the hot plate.  Be careful not to let the straw, or anything else come in contact with hotwire. Keep the end of the straw 4 to 5 inches from the hotwire.  Be sure to spray all sides of the MAF sensor and clean all wires and connectors.  Reassemble the MAF and allow to dry thoroughly before restarting the engine.

Often, technicians will try to use throttle body, carburetor, or brake parts cleaners to clean sensitive MAF sensor components.  However, these aggressive cleaners can be damaging to plastic, which most MAF sensors are housed in today.  If the plastic degrades or warps, the MAF hotwire can shift and malfunction, resulting in expensive repairs.  Use only the original Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner from CRC Industries to safely clean the delicate components of the sensor.  Regular use will restore horsepower, reduce rough idle, decrease hesitation and pinging and improve gas mileage.

A fact that deposits form in every fuel system

GDI engines are particularly prone to rapid build-up of fuel deposits because they’re never cooled or washed with fuel.  Deposits can form in as few as 5,000 to 10,000 miles, restricting proper airflow and increasing engine operating temperatures.  These harmful fuel deposits cause a variety of problems, preventing your vehicle from operating properly.  Unlike common fuel additives that are diluted into fuel before reaching critical fuel system components, GDI IVD Intake Valve Cleaner from CRC Industries is sprayed directly into the air intake system.  This powerful cleaner hits the back of the intake valves at 150 times the concentration of premium fuel additives.  Intake Valve Cleaner is proven to remove up to 23% of carbon build-up in the first hour of use.  It works in all gas-powered engines, not just GDI.  When using Intake Valve Cleaner from CRC, time consuming and costly engine teardown is no longer required to clean intake valves, especially on GDI engines where previously, engine teardown was the only option.

Apply GDI IVD Intake Valve Cleaner with the engine running and at operating temperature.  The unique PermaStraw actuator locks into place, preventing the straw from being drawn into the air intake.  Remove the air filter cover and locate the MAF sensor between the air box and throttle body.  Have someone rev the engine to about 2000 rpms and, engage or lift the PermaStraw Dual-Action Spray System and insert past the MAF sensor.  It’s very important that you do not spray the product in front of the MAF sensor. This could cause the system to throw a code.

You may need to disassemble the air intake to spray the product past the MAF sensor. Again, with the engine running at 2000 rpms, spray the product into the air intake behind the MAF sensor, spraying continuously in 30-second intervals until the can is empty.  If necessary, accelerate slightly during the application to avoid stalling but don’t exceed 3500 rpms.  When the can is empty, accelerate the engine 2 to 3 times but no higher than 3500 rpms.  Run at idle for one minute and, then turn the engine off.

After application, reassemble the air intake system and let the engine “heat-soak” for an hour.  Restart the engine and drive at highway speeds for about 10 minutes.  Using CRC Intake Valve Cleaner will increase power and torque.  It stabilizes rough idle and solves rough starting problems.  It is highly effective for all gasoline engines and regular use will reduce emissions and improve fuel economy.

A hydraulic assist system

When you turn the steering wheel, a spool valve directs the system pressure towards the direction you turn the wheel.  Fluid is constantly pumped from the power steering pump through the system when the engine is running.  After the fluid passes through the steering rack, it returns as a low pressure fluid back to the reservoir that maybe mounted on the pump.  This cycle repeats itself over and over through the life of the system.

 

Over time and exposure to high and low pressures, heat and cold, the “soft parts” of the power steering system will start to harden and sometimes shrink.  Hoses and seals will eventually not work as they were designed, allowing pressure to drop or cause a system leak.  Losing the power steering fluid and running the system dry will result in expensive repairs from over heating and lack of lubricant.

 

Determining that your power steering system has a leak can be as simple as checking the fluid level and noting that it has dropped in the reservoir.  Some reservoirs have dipsticks, others have a window where you can inspect the level.  There are usually two marks to check against, “Hot and Cold”.  The fluid expands as it heats up, so if the vehicle is hot the level should be closer to the hot level.  Cold vehicle, it should be near the lower level.

 

If the fluid level is low, an easy visual inspection of the system should help you locate the leaky spot or spots.  (Note: The following is best done on a cool vehicle.  If you should be going under the vehicle, use safe methods to raise and secure the vehicle.) Use a flashlight and trace the system from the reservoir down the hoses to the steering rack.  Visually inspect the steering rack top and bottom, side to side.  Note the black bellows on each end of the steering rack, squeeze and feel for fluid in them.  If you find them full of fluid you are probably looking at replacing the steering rack. Finish tracing the system from the steering rack back to the reservoir.

 

Sometimes the leaks can be as simple as a clamp coming loose over time.  Just tightening or replacing the clamp will solve your problem.  Leaks at pressure fittings may benefit from a gentle amount of tightening too.